Monthly Archives: November 2013

Dr. Gatot, Our Senior Cosmetic Chemist

“Keep him in line, otherwise he’ll try all kinds of new things.” Talk to his wife, Hasnah. She will tell you that her husband loves to experiment. Dr. Gatot smiles as he assembles powders and oils into new formulas, saying, “The good thing is when you start, you can adjust later.”

Paul Penders senior cosmetic chemist moves throughout the laboratory with a twinkle in his eye. As he reaches for bottles and measures out quantities, you sense he knows exactly what properties the ingredients will give to a formula. He attended the famous Gajah Mada University in Jogjakarta and earned his doctorate from the prestigious Airlangga University in Surabaya, Indonesia.

His particular specialty is tropical flowers.

You can ask Dr. Gatot anything about flowers. A glance at any box in the product line reflects his expertise – angelica, arnica, calendula, chamomile, ginger, lavender, rosemary and many other flower oils and herbal extracts are carefully blended in exact proportions into creams, lotions, shampoos, and more.

Get playing.

The real fun for our senior cosmetic chemist is in the formulation of something new. I have worked with Dr. Gatot for many years and the trust and understanding I have in him is evident when we brainstorm new formulas.


Dr. Gatot and his wife Hasnah at
a recent cosmetics industry trade show

Not every day in the lab is as exciting as when making new products. Because Paul Penders products are cold blended and made in small batches, Dr. Gatot must supervise and check that staff prepare formulas to his exacting requirements.

And you thought making shampoo was easy?

Dr. Gatot stirs the shampoo on a machine with magnets, then it becomes thick and creamy, and changes from a clear liquid to the color of yogurt. The scent is sweet, even deep, with many notes of cinnamon and sugar. “Earthy,” as I call it. Dr. Gatot writes down the exact proportions and grams of each ingredient. “This is expensive shampoo! The most expensive I have ever developed” laughs Dr. Gatot.

The new shampoo that Dr. Gatot has just created is a big commitment – this formula will be replicated thousands of times. That formula needs to be perfect. Tonight we will all be given samples to take back to try – tomorrow we’ll each report on how the shampoo feels and works on our hair and skin. Volunteer testing!

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A General Guide to Cosmetic Terms

Ever wonder what those labels on your beauty care products really mean? Words like “humectants, emulsifier, and surfactants” can be confusing! The following is a good list of cosmetic definitions commonly used in the industry. Now you know!

Antioxidant – A chemical that inhibits oxidation reactions or free radical damage to other molecules. Common antioxidants are vitamin A, C, and E and polyphenols. Antioxidants in skin care products are important both to protect the product itself as well as to diminish the signs of aging.

Barrier – Something that bars passage. Healthy skin is a barrier in that it bars passage of substances into and out of the body protecting it from the outer environment and holding moisture in. Lotions and creams help support this barrier function of the skin. Damaged skin is less of a barrier making it more prone to infection.

Cosmeceutical – A combination of the words Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical. It refers to a cosmetic ingredient that has a pharmaceutical action on the skin. The term is not recognized by the FDA and a cosmetic that makes a pharmaceutical claim is no longer considered a cosmetic but rather an over the counter drug.

Emollient – A substance that softens and sooths the skin making it more supple. Typically this is an oil. It is thought to fill the crevices between the cells in the stratum corneum or outer layer of the skin to improve appearance.

Emulsifier – Binds together substances that could otherwise not be mixed such as oil and water. Emulsifiers are used in any cream or lotion to help hold the oil and water phases together.

Exfoliant – Something that removes the outer, dead layer of skin cells, the stratum corneum. This can be done physically with an abrasive substance such as salt or ground seeds or chemically such as salicylic acid or alpha hydroxy acid.

Fixed Oils – Non volatile oils which are lipids or fats. They are sometimes used as a carrier for essential oils. These include olive oil, almond oil, etc.

Humectant – A substance that binds to water to help retain moisture. This is important for the product itself to keep from drying out, but also to help keep the skin moistened. The best example is glycerin but humectants also include propylene glycol and sorbitol.

Lubricant – A substance that reduces friction and often forms a film on the skin. This is important for feel when applying a product to the skin.

Moisturizer – A substance or product that adds or restores moisture to the skin. Keep in mind that moisture refers to water so oils alone do not moisturize.

Occlusive – Impenetrable; a film spread on the skin to prevent moisture loss. Petroleum oil is one of the best occlusive agents but vegetable oils also work.


Our natural lipsticks contain humectants and moisturizers
to bind water and assist in retaining moisture

Preservative – A compound that inhibits the growth of bacteria and fungus or kills bacteria and fungus. Preservatives are important to protect the product itself as well as to protect the consumer from getting an infection that could be serious. It is absolutely necessary to make sure products containing water or water based ingredients are properly preserved.

Stratum Corneum – The outer-most layer of the epidermis of the skin. It provides the skin with its barrier function.

Surfactant – Reduces the surface tension of a liquid such as water. I first learned this word referring to a phospholipid that occurs in the lungs. Its function there is to reduce surface tension and help keep the lungs open for air to be there. In cosmetics, it means the same thing but examples include detergents, foaming agents, emulsifiers and dispersants.

Of course there are many more terms and definitions. For more information, you can go to our website at test.paulpenders.com for a glossary and complete ingredients list for all our products.

Based on an article by Cindy Jones, Ph. D. / www.personalcaretruth.com


 

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Why Is This Animal Being Tortured Behind Closed Doors?

Because of sports injuries!!

I heard recently that the U.S. National Football League’s Foundation continues to give multimillions for experiments on animals at leading universities. The NFL is motivated: American-style football players have suffered brain and bodily injuries playing the game – even though they wore helmets and padded clothing.

A group of severely brain injured players sued the NFL in a class action and won $765 million dollars! They need to figure out how to protect the players better and have turned to scientists to study sports injuries.

The experiments make no sense at all!

How does smashing a poor little mouse’s head with a hammer have anything to do with a human — wearing a helmet — getting injured in a football game? There are lots of studies that show these kinds of experiments relating animals to humans have little or no validity. Our brains and bodies are different.

And yet, laboratories in the U.S., the U.K. and elsewhere around the world continue to harm animals for so-called scientific purposes. It’s ridiculous! Experiments on animals have to stop!

Every day I hear of the cruelest treatment of animals in the name of Science.

I just cannot understand why some of the world’s best educated people – those scientists working at the world’s leading universities – can also be some of the world’s greatest idiots! How did they lose their basic humanity and compassion? Don’t they understand that nothing justifies deliberate cruelty to living things?

Recently, it was revealed that Imperial College London, ranked 8th in the world, maintains hidden laboratories where hellish animal experiments go on.

Everyone needs to be made aware so that things can change – from the students at universities where this is allowed who could march in and free the animals (as I did when very young) to the politicians who could affect the changes. The British Home Office Minister, Lynne Featherstone, claimed in 2011:

The UK has one of the most rigorous systems in the world to
ensure that animal research and testing is strictly regulated.”

That may be so — but independent investigators have proven again and again that the cruelty continues behind closed doors.

It’s time to pull open those doors!

Stop the needless torture of helpless animals!


 

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Monthly News November 2013

We keep you informed with what's new in the world of natural beauty, our own R&D discoveries, interesting people and causes we care about – and lots more…

November 2013                  Please click on the links to read the full story!
 
 
The Marriage of Nature and Science.Making herbal beauty products is truly “a Marriage of Nature and Science.” Like yin and yang, old and new, woman and man, nothing is really whole unless it’s the product of polar opposites. All the way through the manufacturing process for making Paul Penders products, you can see the relationships between these two primal forces …Read more
 

Running for Pink Ribbon in Amsterdam
.No less than 55.000 people joined Holland’s largest running event: de Dam tot Damloop I was one of them. With a special purpose: raising money and awareness for breast cancer. The “Dam tot Damloop” takes place each September; this was the 29 edition …Read more
 
Organic Certification – We don’t need it!.Is organic certification proof that a cosmetic company is “good” or “no good”? So many companies jump on the bandwagon of organic certification nowadays. Paul Penders, a pioneer in natural cruelty free cosmetics and a socially responsible company provides …Read more
 
New Laws – New Packaging – Update About a Spirited Meeting.The other afternoon, I met with Teviot and Nicole – two lovely and intelligent writer ladies – to brainstorm copy for new boxes of Paul Penders products. The setting was inspiring – we sat together in a vegetarian restaurant at the gorgeous …Read more
 
No More Animal Tests!.I witnessed a shampoo test on rabbits once years ago – and made a life-long promise: “Paul Penders products will NEVER be tested on animals!”. Since the earliest days of our company, I have opposed testing of cosmetics and personal care products on animals. But there’s good news! The world now knows it is no longer necessary to use animals to test beauty products to ensure safe human use. Much more accurate tests are available. More good news! …Read more
 
We can be proud of Langkawi women!Two Langkawi women with our company did for one year a very extensive course at the Open University Malaysia to increase their skills in working with fast paced and rapidly changed, highly competitive companies in the market place. Their course included business law, economics, business accounting and entrepreneurship.…Read more

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