Are We Washing Away the Benefits?

Like almost all the important things in life, getting your health and beauty in order takes time. It’s easy to fall into a routine and then forget to assess if a given product is truly beneficial over the long-run.
However complacency can be dangerous, especially when you are dealing with chemical products to be applied to your body. The latest scientific discoveries could reverse our previous knowledge (remember Marie Curie died of anemia before anyone knew radiation exposure could be dangerous). It’s just good sense to take some time to examine the potential benefits, hazards, and cost-effectiveness of the products we use each day.
As a ‘newbie’ to Paul Penders International line of natural cosmetics, I’m just starting to learn what each product contains and how it can be used as part of a daily beauty regime.
In the shower this morning, I quickly lathered up with the last of my old cheap shampoo from the convenience store. I’m looking forward to trying out the Paul Penders shampoo but my Puritan ancestry still whispers, “Waste not, want not…”
As I watched the suds swirl down the drain, I wondered, “Does anyone know how long a shampoo or conditioner should sit on our hair? What about how long a cleanser or moisturizer should sit on the skin?  How long should we wait before rinsing off in order to reap the benefits?”
The ever-present economic question comes up, “How much money am I wasting if I wash off the product just seconds after applying it?”
Paul Penders International research scientists deal with these questions about Time, Money, and the Benefits of natural cosmetics every day. Here are just a few of my questions to be explored in future blogs:

  • How long should products ‘sit’ on the hair or skin before rinsing?
  • Is there a cumulative effect from repeated use over time?
  • Do the ingredients interact in some way with the rinse water?
  • How much of the benefits are lost if you wash off immediately?
  • What is the optimal beauty regime for use of the Paul Pender products?

The Paul Penders Blog welcomes your questions which we’ll try to answer.
Email us any time at

By Teviot Fairservis.



The Langkawi Island Beachside Café Conversation about Natural Shampoo

It turns out that old adage is true: “oil and water do not mix” – they form an emulsion! I am sitting in a beachside café, drinking coffee on a gorgeous sunny afternoon with founder Paul Penders. He is explaining to me that as the pace of life has increased dramatically the world over and competitors began to put out “lather, rinse, and go” shampoo brands, people stopped buying “non-emulsified” products to their detriment.
I look at him a bit bewildered. What does he mean? What’s wrong with a quick wash-and-go? And what does this fascinating word, emulsification, mean precisely? As soon as I can get home to my computer, I google “emulsifiers.”

    “In what I call ‘non-emulsified shampoos,’ “ Paul says, “you shake them to use, and then the oil immediately starts separating. Then the oil begins to cling to the hair. If you use emulsifiers, the natural oils are stripped away.”

I start to understand. Like that popular tropical drink – a Tequila Sunrise – liquids of different weights tend to form layers which you have to stir or shake to get them to mix. Stir them up and walk away; in a while, they will separate into layers again. Sort of like what happens to my coffee when the milk is curdled.
Make a vinaigrette — pour water or vinegar and some kind of oil into a bottle — and shake. What happens? Scientists say that shaking breaks up two ‘immiscible’ (non-mixing) liquids into droplets that “statistically distribute” themselves throughout the bottle.

    Oil and water do not mix without using an emulsifier

Add an ‘emulsifier’ and the mixed liquid will stay together as an ‘emulsion.’ But if you do not add an emulsifier, then the liquids will start to move apart again – the heavier ones towards the bottom, the lighter ones floating on top.
So what does the emulsifier really do?
It gravitates to the border where the oil and water or air and water meet and reduces the surface tension so they can’t separate, thereby stabilizing the whole solution so it stays mixed. We hear a lot about ‘emulsified’ foods, creams, lotions, and shampoos. Is this just a fancy term or does it means something for your health and beauty?
Paul tells me that way back in 1984 Paul Penders International began when he started using a non-emulsified shampoo formulation invented by his grandmother. His hair salon customers loved it for years – until “Hurry!” became the watchword of modern life.
In order to give shampoos a long shelf life, commercial manufacturers add emulsifiers – usually detergents or ‘emulsifying waxes.’  These break up oil into droplets indiscriminately – both the oils in the shampoo and the natural oils in your hair. Every time you use an emulsified shampoo, your hair gets stripped of the natural oils that your body produces to protect it.
Emulsifiers also form chemical bonds to oils and water, preventing them from attaching to other things – like your hair. They dilute the oils and other nutrients in the shampoo which might be good for your hair – and the result is most of the ‘good things’ are just washed away in the rinse water. Seems like such a waste of money!
On the other hand — taking Paul’s point — if only people were willing to take an extra minute to shake up a non-emulsified shampoo (like Paul’s grandmother’s formula), then natural oils would be retained. The added herbals and oils in the shampoo would cling to the hair, making it healthier and giving it greater body and sheen. Shake! Lather-rinse-and-go!

    That was then.
    See what is now …
    and what will be next!!


Paul Penders International’s Research & Development team works overtime – the company is constantly on the lookout for ways to improve the products. Some years ago, Paul Penders scientists found a gentle emulsifier that doesn’t strip the hair to add to the acclaimed Paul Penders shampoo – keeping up with the times.
Paul Penders R&D is currently at work on a new shampoo based on the old formulation. What’s new is research into the chemistry and uses of indigenous tropical plants as well as studies of the traditional health and beauty practices of the native peoples of Malaysia and Southeast Asia.
In the coming months, you’ll be hearing more about this exciting research and how tropical flowers, herbs, and fruits, and other plants will be used to enhance Paul Penders shampoos and other beauty products in the line. Stay tuned to this blog!
By Teviot Fairservis.



Meeting Intriguing People

Simple living and simply being honest – living by a few simple principles so that we can live our lives to their fullest.  How ‘simple is simple,’ one can ask? I think that the beauty of life lies in simplicity — the simple joys of friendship, love, commitment, and most of all, respect. In regards to this, I like meeting new and exciting people — ones who can change the course of our own life for the better. Again, by ‘simple simpleness.’
Last year, my most impressive meeting with someone new was encountering Mr. Gary Goldschneider in person. He is not only an accomplished American classical pianist, but also one of world’s best astrologers — and lives in Amsterdam.
I bought several of his books in San Francisco some 25 years ago. They are available in bookstores worldwide. Since he was giving a piano recital in Amsterdam and I wanted to know more about him, I decided to take the plane from Asia all the way to Europe in order to see him perform rather than just listening to his CDs.
As it happened; I had a wonderful opportunity to meet him. Actually after the concert he came up to me and asked me a few questions. He looked me straight in the eyes and suddenly something like a light went on – like an instant connection – or whatever we want to call it. Mr. Goldschneider and I became friends. He invited me for dinner at his Amsterdam home. And I am proud to announce here he has been invited to perform by the Penang Art Community, in Malaysia.
Last week I met with Doctor Rahman, a professional healer of alternative and local Malay medicine who has studied in Australia and other countries. He lives in Ipoh which is in Malaysia in the State of Perak – a truly mountainous area where you can find indigenous peoples still living according to the old beliefs of centuries ago. They live amidst trees, plants and waterfalls which they believe have healing properties.
I have invited him to come to Langkawi to show him what we do and share some plans I have for new products using herbs and waters coming from the Perak mountains and communities. I had that same feeling of connection when meeting him and right away I knew that this is a contact forever.
Actually he reminded me of my dear friend Dr. Ab Steyn in Holland who was a famous natural healer who people from all over Europe used to consult. I am sure that in a way Ab brought me to Dr. Rahman. I know by heart that something good will come from it.

Then last month I met Teviot Fairservis, a most interesting American woman living on Langkawi UNESCO Geopark Island, the same as me.  Only a few Americans happen to live in Langkawi and they seem to be perfectly delighted with this wonderful and unique environment. As I am myself American (but Dutch born), I was eager to meet Teviot after I discovered that she writes for www.langkawi-gazette.comI was stunned by a great article about our magical island.
We had coffee in her apartment near the beach, together with her 2 cats. It was very pleasant and I connected very well with her. She is truly intelligent, a great organizer and has a professional background in non-profit administration.  She has a great sense of humor!  I wondered even more about what an American woman alone would be seeking by living in this beautiful paradise located on the other side of the world. I got my answer and much more than I bargained for.
To keep it short…..
Teviot agreed to be one of our writers.

She will handle the Paul Penders blog and will start doing research on local herbs and natural cosmetics related with what we do and represent on this beautiful Langkawi island. Actually her first article will appear on the Paul Penders blog very soon about one of my first products which I developed some 40 years ago — the “non-emulsified shampoo”–  which we are considering bringing back in its same simple form as it was decades ago!
Meeting wonderful people is exciting and actually very simple and truly can enrich our lives. To me it is the perfect example of ongoing learning and a way to gain more happiness. While trying to lessen my own ego each day, I wonder often at the beauty of life, love, and the cultivation of respect – the simple things.

A New R&D Member Ready To Go After Her Dreams

I feel always so very proud that our company has been able to retain its own R&D lab. Therefore we always create new product developments exactly the way we want these to be. We are not caught in the hands of one of the industry manufacturers (called: “OEM” or: contract manufacturer)
Most cosmetics (also natural and organic cosmetics) are produced by large manufacturers who can dictate formulations. Sometimes they keep little secrets. Paul Penders manufacturing is done by our partners Chan and Anne who are also personal friends for over 15 years.
What you must know is that it is very rare that a company of our size has its own full-scale R&D lab. We count our blessings we are able to finance total formulation freedom in this regards having competent and experienced R&D staff aboard. We always are on the lookout for new talent as well. Recently we added a new member to our R&D department and I wish to tell you more about a young, promising cosmetic chemist who shows her colors by determination.
Nora, only 25 years old, has a pretty impressive mindset and is ready to get her teeth in Paul Penders new product development. She has going for her an excellent study under Professor Dr. Abdul Khalil Shawkataly at the University of Science in Penang, Malaysia

She has a degree in food technology but also in business management as well. That interesting mixture caught right away my intention when she wrote me out of the blue skies that she wanted a job at Paul Penders!
Nora has a keen interest in quality control matters. She also has experience in the halal application process (see what that means in terms of cleanest products). Nora also studied microbiological checking on products. Besides her huge interest in natural cosmetics, she is a also committee member of the Japanese language club in Malaysia and a contestant for German language as well.
Promising new talent in Paul Penders Company. What brought Nora to –almost- selling herself to our company? I like to explain Nora’s plans she has for Paul Penders. And when I finally met her in person after she was hired by our team, I believe now this young lady can reach her goals… Here is what Nora says…

         “…My intention is to make Paul Penders product range to become wider with more choices for our customer according to the latest market demands. We know that women nowadays are almost obsessed of looking and feeling their best. I wish to go almost to the extreme by adding even more natural ingredients yet effective for our skincare and makeup products.
         For example, we can make makeup products like foundation (i know we already have foundation) that not just give a good and smooth coverage but can also treat the skin every time when applied, so, one product with multiple functions.
         Same goes to lipsticks as well. Later on we try to make natural lip treatment, or a special exfoliating cream I have in mind and be assured that women will love them! We also can further improve some of our formulations and test them even more to meet customers’ expectation in all countries of the world. These are among few things I have in mind for the brand…”.

Honestly speaking, I am impressed with this ambitious “to-do” list of a young lady. Last week I was at the Penang office and glanced through the glass wall of our lab and saw Nora very busy touching, smelling and shaking all lab bottles and all lab equipment to determine whether all would be up to the task! Apparently all of it got her seal of approval because from there she took off to work!

Nora is still professionally assisted under great care by Yvonne, our trusted and dependable lab manager. With Dr. Gatot still at the background during all the “hocus pocus” of sudden new creative lab happenings 🙂 – I am sure – something good will come forwards from the mind of this young persistent lady.

We welcome Nora as Paul Penders newest R&D member and we all wish her lots of success in reaching her own high standards of profession.



WE ARE always waiting for the perfect brief from the perfect client.
It almost never happens.
You’re probably working on a job or project right now and saying, ‘This is boring, let’s just deal with it and get it over with. We’ll make the next one good.’
Whatever is on your desk right now, that’s the one. Make it the best you possibly can.

It may not be great, but at least you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing you did the best you possibly could, and you may learn something from it.
And you’re always free to do an alternative that does satisfy your creative standards.
Goods briefs don’t just come along.
That’s true, even if you’ve earned a reputation for doing good work (although that helps).
Successful solutions are often made by people rebelling against bad briefs.
It’s Not How Good You Are….  is a guide to making the most of yourself. Paul Arden was a top advertising executive and this little book offers insights into the value of being fired, and why it’s often better to be wrong than to be right, and more! 🙂 The book (ISBN 9780714843377) is for everyone who aspires to succeed in life! We bring from time to time one of the many short pieces of this GREAT work.